I’m printing with PLA on a “PEO” print bed (really a textured PEI), on my heavily modified ender 3, and there’s a pattern on the bottom of my first layer that I’m trying to get rid of. The top of the first layer looks fine, and changing the z offset in either direction doesn’t help. I’ve also tried slowing down the print speed because I thought the extruder might be skipping, but I’m still seeing it at 10mm/s. Any idea what could be causing it, and how to get rid of it?
Edit: the first layer went down from the bottom left to the top right, but the pattern I’m seeing is perpendicular to the extruder path
Layer adhesion is great.
No, this pattern isn’t coming from the bed. The bed actually has a polygon pattern that I’m trying to get the plastic to pick up. Sellers on Amazon/ebay/Ali are calling it PEO, but it’s really just PEI with a fine texture that diffracts light. The pattern from the bed comes through really well on the perimeter of anything I print, but not the center.
I forgot to mention, but I also played with the extrusion multiplier (both directions) and it didn’t make a difference. I’ve also gone through the klipper docs and TeachingTech’s calibration guide, the printer is fairly well calibrated at this point.
How’s your temperature? Could be printing too hot. Both on the nozzle and the bed.
It’s hot - 60 bed, 220 nozzle. I’ll try 40/200
For PETG that’s not that hot. On my i3 clone I was usually 70 bed and 230-235 nozzle. I would try a temp tower and do what looks best. Based on what you’ve said so far, temp does seem like a possible culprit.
This is PLA, I can’t get PETG to stick to the “PEO” bed plate.
Ah, sorry. That does sound a bit hot for PLA. I still suggest a temp tower. If you’re having bed adhesion issues, have you cleaned your bed with dish soap lately? Be sure to use only paper towel to clean/dry it - not a sponge or towel. If that’s impractical, I’ve found Windex to work better than IPA.
I’d suggest taking it down to 210, 215. a bed at 60 should be normal. If you have one take an IR thermometer and read off a sheet of paper (or a 1-layer print. the thermometers aren’t so good at reading glossy surfaces.) IIRC, for most PLA’s the glass transition temperature is around 70 so 60 should be right there.
Glass transition is where the plastic begins to soften and be bendable/moldable.
40/200 looks the same as 60/220. I can try 60/210 but I don’t think it will be any different.
I tried printing a disk with the bed at 70c and it looks better. Going to try with it even higher. This sheet has a +0.350 z offset compared to my normal PEI sheet, so that might contribute to low heat conduction.
Careful. Too high and you will get failed prints. (Somewhere around the glass transition temp,)