PEI is one of the best surfaces you will ever find to print on, although I believe one type of filament (I think a variation of PLA?) sticks too well and can damage the PEI trying to take prints off…

That’s PETG. I avoid using smooth PEI plates like fire when PETG is loaded. Even after swapping the filament to PLA, little bits of residual PETG can still stick leaving a shadow on the plate. Textured PEI is mostly fine, but single layer stuff like brims are a pain to get off.

From what I understand it tests the minimum retraction distance you need to avoid stringing. The lower you get the less retraction you need. For example, for me usually it stops stringing around 0.4mm retraction (that’s 4mm measured from the hot plate), but found that in real conditions the default 0.6mm works better. I don’t find this test too useful, for me it fails to demonstrate the spectrum between too little and too much retraction, a feature I appreciate in the pressure advance tower. Apparently the moment it stops stringing, anything after that won’t show you anything new and it’s best to stop the print. Either that or I fail to notice any defects when the retraction is relatively high.

Lead ain’t that dangerous. Just take it out and dispose of it like you do with normal batteries. Clean your hands afterwards and you’re dandy. As for the clock, the battery contacts, and whatever they were attached to, are likely eaten away, but I can’t say that for certain from this photo. If you’re lucky and they’re mostly intact, some IPA scrubbing and a dip in vinegar, and a bit more scrubbing, should take most of the crust away. That rust though, probably some vinegar, maybe a deoxidating agent (like navy jelly?) could clean it off. Even cleaning all of it doesn’t guarantee that it’ll work any way.

I’m thinking about getting some of those activated alumina beads. I’ve heard they are both more efficient at absorbing moisture and can be recycled indefinitely without degrading. Sounds like a perfect fit for your setup.

Two that I know of that made decent games is K-D Lab that made Perimeter and Vangers (both open sourced and recently remastered), and Nikita responsible for the Parkan series. They’re not by any means greatest hits but they’re unique and worth checking out.

EDIT: And oh, Pathologic by Ice-Pick Lodge too, but I haven’t played those. Those seem funky and definitely not for everyone.

EDIT2: There’s apparently a list of Russian made games on Wikipedia , good to know.

The model in question has metal screw bosses.

That’s pretty cool. I wish more devices had brass inserts. I kinda hate the idea of screwing into plastic. Anyway, do whatever you feel you need. I don’t think it’d get loose even with daily usage, but I might be wrong.

What does that solve? Isn’t the whole purpose of a threadlocker to keep the screw in place? I can imagine that plastics are soft enough that they keep the screws in place on their own. As far as I know, and from my own experience, there’s been no trouble with screws loosening over time in those consoles, so I don’t know how adding threadlocker would help.

Overtightening screws does that. Plus, transparent plastics tend to be more brittle, so you have to be more careful. Been re-shelling some gameboys and the exact issue cropped up with shells cracking at the screw holes. Guy I follow on youtube recommends screwing them all the way then loosening them a quarter of a turn. Might help lessen the stress.

Had to replace my UPS battery just a few days ago after a power outage reminded me that a replacement was well overdue. I share your feeling, now I can sleep knowing a power blip won’t knock out my servers and mess up my data.

Yea, true, water reservoir, top part where coffee gathers, coffee basket, gasket and a filter. No I don’t use soap as you said, only water. I guess I’m just lazy, and doing it in the morning when I’m short on time, playing around with a hot pot is kinda not the thing I’d like to do. That’s why I use a phin most of the time, as it’s just a thin and light piece of steel, and it cools off really quickly, easy to clean and no need to worry about corrosion and sum such. To be honest I’d have to try how it’d work out, as I never used it day to day. I always had this notion that a moka pot, being made out of aluminium, doesn’t like to sit in water. I don’t know for sure how true it is, but to be on the safe side I always rinsed it thoroughly and wiped it dry. Maybe I was overdoing it?

Same, my 3tz takes 18 grams. Also taking it off is kinda tricky cause of thermal inertia. Pot is still hot enough to boil the water after taking it off the heat, but that might be due to its higher mass. Anyway, experiment, making coffee is fun.

Had to come back home from work. I guess calling it “intense” would be appropriate. I’ve missed the coffee fountain, the bubbles and the thick black coffee that this method produces. What I don’t miss is the waiting and watching, cause it won’t turn itself off when it’s done, and the eventual hassle of cleaning the pot and all its parts every time I want a coffee. Oh well, nature of the beast I guess. Still, worth going through it when one craves a strong cup of coffee.

Ohh, haven’t done that in forever. Now I miss making coffee this way. I guess I’ll dust off my pot today, see if it still brews good.

Yes, they are. I pre-measure the amount in the evening and in the morning, while the kettle is getting hot, I grind it and put it into a Phin (vietnamese coffee filter, you’d be surprised how good it is) well before the water’s ready. While it takes its time to drip I cook up something quick to eat… and that’s been my morning for the last few years :D

Manual grinders aren’t bad, unless you go for the cheap ones. For example, my Comandante grinder has a steel conical burr, but most of the cheaper ones come with ceramic. The thing is, the thing’s sharp, I could actually cut myself if I wasn’t careful during cleaning, opposed to the ceramic burrs that are pretty blunt (from what I’ve heard, never had one). That makes grinding coffee a breeze (maybe 20-30secs for ~13grams for a cup of coffee), even on finer settings, also it introduces less dust, as it doesn’t crush the beans but cuts them into fine bits. There are many models of manual grinders that come with great burrs, some of are of the Chinese make if price is an issue (1zpresso for example).

Flat burrs are an electric grinder thing. The mechanics of grinding with those is a little different than with conical ones, but the result is pretty much the same. Electric grinders can come with both conical or flat burrs. I’ve got an absolute overkill of a grinder meant for commercial use, bought used for around $300. The thing is a beast, takes less than 5secs for ~20g of coffee. I wouldn’t suggest you get one (Mazzer Super Jolly FYI), just because of its size, but anything with that kind of build quality is likely gonna last you a literal lifetime. There are some more reasonably sized consumer electric grinders though, I heard Wilfa Svart is decent, some other might be fine as well.

I’ve got a whole 0.5kg bag of coffee for that much in Germany, and that’ll last me almost a month (~25 cups). What’s so good about Starbucks that it costs as much per cup?

So, “flies” from The Invincible? Microbots that pretty much conquered a planet, making it impossible for all life to exist on the planet’s surface. There was no “obeying” them, only dying or leaving.

Dude that wrote that (in 1964 no less) must’ve been a time traveler. Computers back then barely started being miniaturized, there were no home PCs, no smartphones or actual nano tech to speak of. Only recently we’ve started building microbots and nano scale mechanisms.

That’s not gold, it’s just a heat sheet.

TBH as I see it, this could be a good thing, especially if those patches were go upstream. Lemmy could end up DOS hardened as fuck if this continues. Hopefully the attacker will eventually run out of attack vectors, although from what I’m seeing, this could take months, as it’s been happening for a long time already.

I did just that a while ago. Seeing on my server what you’ve been seeing in yours I’ve just turned it off for a day or so, and when I turned it on just to be sure that I have to scrap it and start again, it started working just fine. So, I’d say, let it be, let it rest, come back to it later. Or I dunno, maybe it was just a fluke.