Others have suggested greasing the dowel or using bearings, and if the issue was friction, then they’d be right.

If the issue is inertia, then this won’t help. Accelerating a given mass to a given velocity requires a certain amount of energy, no matter what.

What could help is something similar to a Huygen drive, where the filament is looped around a large wheel (large enough that the filament can curve around it without breaking) which is able to move against a spring or counterweight. This would allow the movement of the spool to be “averaged out” rather than accelerating and decelerating sharply on every extrusion and retraction.

I have experience buying, not selling, but should still be able to help.

Local sales are the way to go for 3d printers. Local sales also allow people to see the printer and check that it works as they expect before committing to buying it. Most people will pay more for a known-working printer than a the-owner-says-it-works one. Local sales also avoid shipping which, in addition to the downsides that you’ve discovered, caries some risk for the printer. The downside of local sales is that you might have to wait for a long time until someone nearby wants the type of printer that you have (or until someone who doesn’t live nearby opportunistically picks up the printer as they were going to pass near you anyways).

Nealy everywhere has a Craigslist-like for local sales, which could be Kijiji, Letgo, FB marketplace, etc. There’s no harm in listing the same printers on multiple sites to see which one gathers the most interest. (Just please make sure to take all of the listings down once the printers are sold.)

OK, wow. Hasbro’s aesthetic design team really knocked this one out of the park. This is far more than you’d expect for what’s functionally a pretty simple springer.

maybe I’ll do some mega for red.

Thanks, and that’s a good idea. I’ll remember it for next year.

I didn’t have as much mega then as I do now, but I did have a good number of Titans - which were too heavy for the tree to support.

I’ll second all of what Ali said, but I’d also like to add that not all games these days even allow homemade darts due to safety concerns. The worst-case here would be a felt tip falling off and exposing the metal washer underneath.

For this reason some darts were made without a washer at all - and with either a solid lump of hotglue serving as the weighted tip or with a small BB in the bottom of that hole for weight (which guide Ali linked might already say? There’s a follow-up post saying that it was updated to include metal-free dart tips but I can’t find where it describes how to make them.)

OP, I’d recommend reconsidering whether you want a hard tip. If you’re running into issues with people not feeling and not taking hits, improving the velocity of your blaster will solve that while also providing greater range a difficulty-to-dodge. (If your problem is people “not feeling” and not taking hits - then that’s not something that any modification can solve short of something actually dangerous.)

If you do have a good reason for wanting a harder-than-normal tip, then 3d printed tips are an option. TPU is available in a variety of hardnesses and differing infill and tip geometry should theoretically allow you to design a tip with whatever characteristics you want. I wouldn’t recommend this - most people don’t other with homemade darts at all any more and there’s good reasons for that - but it is an option if you just want homemade darts.

This would have been absolutely brilliant if it was released 3 years ago.

I haven’t even gotten to the best part: the Nerf Pro Stryfe X fits magazines and darts from other brands.

This is surprising given Hasbro’s past attempts to push proprietary ammo. I haven’t said this for a long time, but good for Hasbro.

$120 feels like a bit of money for a semiauto blaster when Dart Zone just began shipping the $90 select-fire Omnia Pro.

Indeed it does.

the Stryfe X’s new rails and lack of barrel adapter break compatibility with a decade of body kits

Wait, isn’t compatibility with existing kits the biggest benefit of keeping the form factor of the Stryfe? This doesn’t make sense.

As happy as I am to see Hasbro moving into the modern era, I’m concerned that this may be too little, to late, too expensive.

I’ve yet to see a printed mag adapter - but having the mag come in from any direction other than the top would require modifying at least part of the connection between the plunger tube and the pump grip, so if you’re doing that sort of work you may as well use another blaster’s magwell anyways.

The Sportsman is one of those blasters that I wish was more widely used. It’s not just the it has potential in certain specific roles - it’s unique, and impressive that it can work as well as it does.