The disclaimer says they’re trying to get it approved which implies they believe it could be
That’s a tough one and I doubt they will succeed with this. As far as I know, they would need to certify a material + process (3d-printer & settings, slicer-software & settings) + 3D-model combination. Far easier to certify a product containing 3D-printed parts than a 3D model/file.
Plastic is the wrong material due to moisture building up inside and some other pitfalls.
First of all: Legal is the bare minimum.
If you run a contest or sweepstakes and set out rules you are bound to them. Ignoring them like Prusa did exposes you up to liability claims.
You’re mad that the contest was moderated?
More the opposite. The sloppy way they moderate it to the point where they don’t even bother to remove comment spam below the contest description page.
Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it. Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it.
That’s not how it works. There is no public vote.
Honestly I stopped reading. Something about a paid part integration that you got mad about because it’s heavily discounted and you can submit photos even if you don’t have one or something?
Just read the comments here: https://blog.prusa3d.com/contest-experiential-robotics-challenge_97306/
Dozens feel like this isn’t a good choice.
Btw. I don’t take part in them but it is still very ugly what they do. Similiar you don’t need to buy Nestle to understand that Nestle might be problematic in some aspect.
For Germean voters there is the WahloMat to help with the voting choice (a dozen of questions and in the end shows how much overlap there is with all the parties): https://www.wahl-o-mat.de/europawahl2024/app/main_app.html
The major issue is that if you care about CopyRight: Party A. Easier to comply with regulation: Party B. Migration: Party C. Environment: Party D.
And all of the choices (A-D) have some very removed, prominent positions that you strongly oppose and in the end, have no clue what to elect and choose the least worst option and hope for the best.
Default settings. Where is the option to rotate it?
Providing it manually with 90° rotated and using the auto arrange instead of fill bed: 5 pcs. Still not a great result.
With mainsail and klipper, you can cancel one failed part mid-print and keep going on the rest of the parts.
There is an addon for Duet (RRF) but I can’t get it working. Anyway, once it is time for a batch print the first testprint has been completed successfully and build plate adhesion is a non-issue on this printer.
You have to tell it the dimensions of your extruded head, so it doesn’t crash the part Ask me how I destroyed two z-endstops this year (very asymmetrical toolhead and Prusa can’t be configured to reflect this and with a “radius” large enough it would block half of the printbed (60mm radius or so) meaning eyeballing is the best option).
I only use this option if I need the part before the entire batch is finished and don’t want to start multiple prints. Which isn’t frequent.
The best protection is a machine that is well build:
We have ovens in our kitchens that are designed to reach upto 400°C (for cleaning) and nobody is afraid of them catching fire. Why? They are engineered to be safe.
Similiar a 3D printer that has good engineering is safe and doesn’t require an automatic fire extinguisher.
If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe but the solution is to fix them instead of adding the fire suppression system.
Styrol isn’t a particle that settles down like dust. It is a liquid with a significant enough vapor pressure to be problematic.
An activated carbon filter can get rid of the vapor.
Form 2 is challenging to operate for a newbie:
The teeth is indeed a critical aspect. It has to be symmetrical as this assembly is mirrored to block the rotation in the other direction.
An alternative to this would be printing the spring with the contact surface separately and inserting it into this print (pause at layer height, insert part, continue print) allowing other geometries (that would overlap with the teeth if printed in place) and pretension. The downside is it’s a manual task and one more separate part to keep track of.
This is small and the tolerances of the center hub cause the teeths/“gear” to move approx. 0.3-0.5mm of centre. This means what you see in the CAD/slicer isn’t how it will look once printed. I had to narrow the gap down as much as I could to get the largest contact area. If you make it a sled on one side there is less material/surface area.
A further consequence is that the tip of it doesn’t touch anything as such you could remove the very tip to adjust the sound signature. The feeling is slightly changed but primarily this replaced the high-pitched plastic sound with a deep tone.
The nice aspect is that in the blocking position, it is a solid connection meaning it can take as much load as the teeth (tip) can support (hence the trying to maximize the contact area there). The spring element is only there to return this blocking “bolt” into position after a teeth passes through.
Watch your attitude.
I think you still somehow assume this is some kind of ad to sell this design for money or I am a jerk for not just publishing it with source files.
Also not everybody spends their time designing and publishing whatever is popular at the moment on Makerworld to collect points/store credit. There is a different world that doesn’t run on Fusion360 source file most people could edit and can design parts with a particular material & print(farm)/process in mind to get the most out of the FFF 3D-printing process.
Here you go: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6595547
v10 should still be 0.4mm tolerances (easy to print) on all sides and working. Otherwise not a great design but enough for you to understand that there are dozens of parameters to tune in such a “simple” mechanism and it is (nearly) impossible to nail it on the first try. Have we started talking about optimizing the force required to break it loose? That’s one more thing that needs to be accounted for.
If you consider sharing mechanical design concepts as not in line with the spirit it’s fine but others are likely interested in seeing how things work and takes it as inspiration for their designs.
Go and recreate it. Nobody stops you. Could provide the STL but wouldn’t be worth a lot as this is so dialed (tolerances) that it comes down to the specific printer/extrusion system. There are older revisions with huge tolerances (0.4mm) that work but wear down rapidly. To print this exact version it needs to be capable of printing with 0.23mm gap/tolerance between parts.
3D-scanning and work with the digital twin.
OpenScan is a opensource project for smaller objects. With the PS5 maybe a Creality CR-Scan but it’s quality will be borderline unusable for a shape like a PS5 panel. So after all the entry scanner for a job like this could be a Shining Einstar.
Good news: If you own an iPhone try it’s lidar first. Creality CR-Scan is only slightly better than iPhones. With Android phone, you could try photogrammetry but to scan the PS5 part you would need matting spray and even more tracker (small dots glued to the surface).
Btw. Somebody somewhere at some point in time already scanned or modeled the PS5 side panel. As starting point check GrabCAD and thingiverse for a 3D-model.
I don’t think it will break anytime soon.
Regardless, E3D toolchangers weigh about 30kg (the equivalent of approx. four Ender 3 [by weight]). If it broke, the printer wouldn’t move much, but there would still be a big mess as the spool would fall to the floor and unroll.
The Brits will call it BBU:
British banna unit is defined as 1 BBU = the energy to heat 1 pint of banana juice by 1°F.
Surprisingly very low friction. The only issue is it slowly grinds away the wood but at this rate, I will have gone through dozens of spools before the wooden rod needs replacement.
PLA. I don’t care if it creeps/breaks after a year. Just print a replacement with whatever is loaded on the machines.
How about a 3D-printer that prints its own z-axis?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek_7tBOCcAI