I don’t know of any modern paste that is electrically conductive, heck I basically use old thermal paste as an extra layer of protection on my gpu with liquid metal. You can be sloppy and contrary to the old belief, you can’t use too much.
The bigger thing to watch out for is dried paste that essentially turns into adhesive. You can break a contact applying too much force, though with a heat gun (or hair dryer) and some patience it should be easy to avoid.
No problem, although I was definitely thinking of desktops and not a laptop. Some of the ‘quiet’ fan curves can be very underpowered and are detrimental to performance.
If it’s not under warranty and you’re comfortable opening it up, replacing the thermal pads and paste will do wonders for your temps though. Even if it’s fairly new, a lot of laptop OEMs just have terrible paste applications.
Well, if you’re looking at Tdie/edge temps it’s pretty unavoidable to see 80-90c on modern cards, at least if they’re air cooled. I think amd has a 20-30c delta between Tdie and average ‘gpu’ temp, nvidia is around 20c? Either way, even with a perfect paste application you can set your target temp to 70c and still get some nasty looking temp spikes.
Thermal protection is way faster than software can report, unless you’re overclocking it’s really not something to worry about imo.
Good lord, reading some of the comments on this article made me lose braincells. Musk sure is owning the marxist libs with these fucking leaky refrigerators on wheels.
Idk, something just irks the hell out of me when people are like “50% battery is actually good bro, it’s the perfect storage level for lithium bro”. It’s not in storage anymore, it’s being delivered.
ICE cars are shipped with a quarter tank or less, but they are never delivered without close to a full tank. The fact that the Tesla dealer didn’t spend the $1 of electricity or the half hour washing it down is just plain rude. And yet, people are still defending this shit as if being abused by big daddy musk is their life’s greatest goal. Absolutely mind boggling.
Using a headphone in production =/= a good headphone.
Cans for mixing have a compleptly different sound signature than for music enjoyment. Unless you just love trebble, stuff like beyerdynamic and m50x are atrocious sounding.
They are a resolving headphone for sure, and very well built. They’re not a bad headphone per-se but for normal folks they really need to stop being recommended so much.
Stuff like the Philips shp9500 and akg K371 are way more enjoyable, cheaper, and still pretty much indestructible. But the true advice is that audio is subjective as fuck, try out some stuff and find what you like. Trust your ears, not some dude on the Internet
If you have an amp: Modhouse Argons. The Fostex t50rp is built like a tank, and while it’s not the most resolving planar in the world the sound signature is just a ton of fun. I’ve had various t50rp mods for 15+ years, none of them have broken and the argons are in my top 3 of all time. But they really do drink about 1 watt per channel, so if you’re not already in the deep end, just avoid jumping in altogether.
No amp: KSC75/porta pros are pretty bassy, they just lack sub bass. Plenty of impact though, and for most music it’s all you really need. Pick youself up an $10 apple dongle (apple sucks but their dongle dac is legitimately a great value) and you have about 90% of what an audiophile spent thousands to achieve.
Another no-amp option could be Monoproce retro headphones. It’s sort of like an akg 240 clone but fully closed. The stock pads are terrible, but with some xl leather pads they become very comfortable and super bassy. The pads and cans are like $25 each; it’s a pretty unbeatable value. But they are also a bit of a one trick pony, if you’re looking to daily drive something the akg K371 would be a better rounded option.
I’m a bottom
Goddammit 🤦♂️
No problem, I hope you find something that works for you. There’s definitely a ton of money to save if you forego a lot of the cutting edge features of the XL. I just feel jaded about waiting for years and still having a product that feels unpolished.
I know this thread is a bit old but I want to rant a little about my experience with the 2T Prusa XL. Hopefully this helps your decision a bit.
First off if you’re gonna buy it, build it yourself. 100% anecdotal but the people I’ve seen with crashing tool heads and major issues all have pre-assembled units. Maybe something happens to the frame in shipping, but my semi-assembled unit hasn’t had any tool crashes or serious flaws… yet
Secondly, the price is much higher than the website tells you. Prusa doesn’t secretly overcharge you, but they also don’t include many things I feel should be at this price point. The lack of enclosure being the most egregious to me, but I also would like a camera or at least support to add one. I’ve had to spend an additional few hundred dollars getting more nozzles (seriously, fuck 0.4mm on a 360³ build plate), an enclosure, and even another peice of extruded aluminum so this thing doesm’t rattle itself to pieces. It definitely feels more like a ‘first gen’ product more than anything I’ve had from Prusa in the past, but I do think the platform has a ton of potential.
So far performance has been good, not great like I expected out of Prusa. Mainly; it’s a bit slow for a coreXY, and I’ve had some adhesion problems even with pla on a textured plate. I think I solved the adhesion issue with an enclosure, it’s in my garage so the temperature varies a ton. Still, keep in mind since they do not even give you the option to buy an enclosed XL.
Multi color and material has been where this printer really starts to shine, I would argue that the single tool head isn’t even worth producing. The filament waste is negligible and tool changes add very little time to the print (about 12 minutes per 100 changes), although I have had some issues with z shift after a tool change. It’s impressive to watch it change extruders effortlessly, and probably the only part of this printer that I would say was worth the price.
If I had to do it all over again I probably would have just cancelled my pre-order. Seeing printers like the peopoly magneto at a similar price really drives home how long this printer was delayed. It almost feels outdated upon arrival, especially since the XL still has a lot of software features missing.
TL;DR it’s a good printer, but not as good as I expected out of Prusa. Compared to truly state of the art printers it seems overpriced, and unless you plan on exclusively printing multi-color or material you will be better served by other products.
Thanks for the info, I probably would have never even looked at the white version otherwise.
These are a much needed replacement for the clicking fans in my nas lol
How are the bearings better in the white version?
Honestly I have not read much about the new max fans, I have a ton of 10+ year old p/f12s I would like to replace though.
Honestly it’s still an absolute pain in the ass but it’s come a very long time since those dark ages.
For my last build I bit the bullet and got a leakshield from aquacomputer. It keeps negative pressure in the loop so if there is a leak, it sucks air back into the tubing instead of letting water out. It works like a charm, it’s just too damn expensive to recommend for non-workatation rigs.
But I can pull 1000w from the wall and still have my system under 30db, so that’s nice.
I’d bet my bottom dollar a reddit LLM is being worked on too. They won’t stop milking their communities until the end.
It will depend on how many miles you ride in a week but waxing my chain has simplified my bike maintenance a ton. I only ride about 24km a day though, so it takes a bit to get to 300km and need to re-wax them.
I also ride my MTB in very sandy and gritty dirt, the wax sheds this off and improves the lifespan of my chain. I needed to constantly clean the cassette and chain when I was using “dry” lube. It definitely is a pain to re-wax, and it’s not a perfect solution for everyone, but if the dirt you ride is sticking to your chain/cassette, it’s the best I can recommend.
I would also recommend keeping your fork and/or rear suspension maintenanced professionally. I will sometimes do a 6 month service myself, but sending my fork in every 100hrs of use has kept it buttery smooth. Some shops will help get you the optimal performance for your body weight and riding style too, you’d be surprised how much speed can be gained with a tune.
Other than that, blead brakes if they’re hydraulic, check tires and sealant, and if you run carbon parts it’s always a good idea to check for cracks or rock strikes. Carbon is strong until it isn’t, and no one wants to end a race because of a broken part.
Sorry for the long ass comment, hope this at least helps
Your correct that thickness plays a role in theremal transfer, but the paste and amount you use is not what determines that gap. Both laptop and desktop heatsinks are under quite a bit of pressure, more than enough to squish out extra paste. If you want to be extra sure you can spread a thin layer across the entire chip, but a dot or two usually works just fine. This video is on desktop coolers but mounting pressure should be similar.
If your laptop is over a couple years old I can almost guarantee there are dry spots on the chip currently. Laptops already run pretty hot and it’s a double whammy for drying and pump out.