Be happy you have them, there’s nothing worse than rusting discs in the rear that you can’t do anything about because there is too little force on them. Every inspection I shell out 200€ for new discs and pads in the rear, 400€ if I don’t have time.
I think you have an issue with your brake distribution box or your master cylinder if it has it’s the design that has seperate chambers for front and bake brakes.
Also make sure to grease all of the no braking contact points such as where the pads slide back and forth in the caliper. I try to do that once a year if I can.
I know, I know, I keep the brake saddles swimming nicely, but the rear brakes only get about 20% of the brake force and if you’re not hooning most of the braking is done by the engine anyway. I’d actually pay for drums in the rear and I’m a bit envious of VW id owners because they get them.
Rotors can get rusty when you haven’t driven for a while, but it’s just cosmetic. That’s no reason to replace rotors. Even if you end up with a bit of grooving from bits of sand in the pads (especially on the rear discs) it’s no issue.
Something else is wrong, or your mechanic is taking you for a ride.
Absolutely normal for this model. Generally a problem for electric cars.
The TÜV in Germany doesn’t accept rotors with even the slightest bit of grooves and a rusty edge. Even if that edge is where the pad doesn’t reach - you are replacing them.
It really sounds like your brakes are screwed up. All around disc brakes aren’t THAT preferential to the front. Also, if your rear rotors aren’t really getting used and are just all rusty, why do you keep buying replacement rear rotors? Just take a wire wheel to them and slap them back on. Same with pads. Why are they being ruined every two years if they aren’t getting used?
All that aside, do you have small drum brakes for your ebrake in the rear, or is it only disc brakes? Many have a “drum in hat” setup where the e brake doesn’t use the disc brakes, but if you do have disk only, you could try moving a bit while you activate the e brake and see if it polishes off your rust and stuff. E brakes of either kind only lock back wheels.
TÜV here in Germany will laugh you off the lot of you just brush off the rust. Either the discs are rust free, including the edge where the pad doesn’t reach or you’re getting new rotors. They are pretty strict :/
The e-brake while driving triggers the ESP the same way the ACC would. No such luck. Only pulls the pads beneath 3km/h. The only thing you can do is to occasionally switch into N to disable recuperating and brake down from 120 to 50, e.g. when entering a village and hope that the rear gets cleaned off enough. Or you really send it on the curvy mountain roads around here and exceed 80kW braking into every corner. It’s a trade off between wasting energy but keeping the brakes clean.
Be happy you have them, there’s nothing worse than rusting discs in the rear that you can’t do anything about because there is too little force on them. Every inspection I shell out 200€ for new discs and pads in the rear, 400€ if I don’t have time.
I think you have an issue with your brake distribution box or your master cylinder if it has it’s the design that has seperate chambers for front and bake brakes.
Also make sure to grease all of the no braking contact points such as where the pads slide back and forth in the caliper. I try to do that once a year if I can.
I know, I know, I keep the brake saddles swimming nicely, but the rear brakes only get about 20% of the brake force and if you’re not hooning most of the braking is done by the engine anyway. I’d actually pay for drums in the rear and I’m a bit envious of VW id owners because they get them.
Dude, no way. This is not remotely normal!
Rotors can get rusty when you haven’t driven for a while, but it’s just cosmetic. That’s no reason to replace rotors. Even if you end up with a bit of grooving from bits of sand in the pads (especially on the rear discs) it’s no issue.
Something else is wrong, or your mechanic is taking you for a ride.
Absolutely normal for this model. Generally a problem for electric cars.
The TÜV in Germany doesn’t accept rotors with even the slightest bit of grooves and a rusty edge. Even if that edge is where the pad doesn’t reach - you are replacing them.
It really sounds like your brakes are screwed up. All around disc brakes aren’t THAT preferential to the front. Also, if your rear rotors aren’t really getting used and are just all rusty, why do you keep buying replacement rear rotors? Just take a wire wheel to them and slap them back on. Same with pads. Why are they being ruined every two years if they aren’t getting used?
All that aside, do you have small drum brakes for your ebrake in the rear, or is it only disc brakes? Many have a “drum in hat” setup where the e brake doesn’t use the disc brakes, but if you do have disk only, you could try moving a bit while you activate the e brake and see if it polishes off your rust and stuff. E brakes of either kind only lock back wheels.
TÜV here in Germany will laugh you off the lot of you just brush off the rust. Either the discs are rust free, including the edge where the pad doesn’t reach or you’re getting new rotors. They are pretty strict :/
The e-brake while driving triggers the ESP the same way the ACC would. No such luck. Only pulls the pads beneath 3km/h. The only thing you can do is to occasionally switch into N to disable recuperating and brake down from 120 to 50, e.g. when entering a village and hope that the rear gets cleaned off enough. Or you really send it on the curvy mountain roads around here and exceed 80kW braking into every corner. It’s a trade off between wasting energy but keeping the brakes clean.
Alright TIL lol