Welcome to today’s daily kōrero!
Anyone can make the thread, first in first served. If you are here on a day and there’s no daily thread, feel free to create it!
Anyway, it’s just a chance to talk about your day, what you have planned, what you have done, etc.
So how’s it going?
It’s a quiet saturday. Had no nightmares which was surprising after playing episode 4 in a super creepy horror DnD game last night.
Lemmy continues to grow by 5,000 users per day:
I’m contributing $1 per month to lemmy.world, is there a way I can contribute to lemmy nz?
You have to be careful with user stats, if you look at total users rather than active users then you’ll find a lot of spambots.
In terms of contributing to lemmy.nz, our hosting is kindly provided by fediservices.nz who you can donate to here: https://opencollective.com/nz-federated-services
Hosting is by far the biggest expense so donating to them is the best way to support lemmy.nz.
Thanks, I’ve signed up!
Awesome, thank you!
Spent an hour or two replacing a battery into a ~7 year old Chromebook - ASUS C302CA. This has been my daily interface to the Internet and has done, and is still doing, such a great job that a $75 upgrade to a new battery seemed like a good bet.
Have gone from 2 to 3 hrs of battery life back to around 8 hrs. Awesome.
Can highly rate thinking about keeping ageing tech alive if it’s still fit for purpose. Better than just chucking it out and replacing.
I got an Acer C730, its almost ten years old but its still running and doing everything I need it to do. I’ve replaced the charger 3 times but not the battery since its always plugged in. I will be sad when it dies but for $125 I couldnt have asked for more.
I love the whole Chromebook platform. Not sure if the Acer C730 runs Linux - the ASUS does.
Having, effectively, 3 OS’s built in, ChromeOS, Android, and Linux makes the platform super usable. I mostly work at the Debian command line, right on the ASUS or shell into various servers. Being able to install Gimp etc., locally or run them off a server via X-Windows makes such a simple, and affordable device so flexible.
The ASUS has just run out of supported updates, but I don’t think that is going to be too much of a problem for a while. Hope Google don’t change ChromeOS any time soon…
I’m running fedora because I hated how restrictive chromeos is.
Aging tech is the best for this, because the new thin stuff is all gued together.
Unexpectedly going to see Henry Rollins talk at Old St Pauls tonight. A friend who suddenly can’t go has passed me her ticket. While I’m pleased to go see him it the reason why she can’t go kind of sucks, so a bit mixed feelings really.
Anyone else going to this?
This might be a bit niche, but does anyone have some good resources on creating or setting up solar powered systems? Not as in for the house (hopefully in the future though!) Moreso just smaller projects so I can learn the ins and outs of it. I’d like to get involved in this space, but don’t really have any experience in it.
I feel like there are people around that might be able to help. Probably not me… But people.
Do you have an idea of the kind of project you’re looking at doing?
Not really, just wanted a starting point to learn the basics. I can’t think of anything off the top of my head that would be useful. I’ll keep searching!
What type of scale you thinking?
I’ve done a tiny bit of solar work on a microcontroller scale i.e., 5~20 watts of solar panel range
Probably small to start, don’t want to invest too much yet. Trying to think of something useful for the garden or outdoor space
Do you think you’ll want to have a battery in your system so that you still have power when it get’s cloudy, or during the night?
Nothing specific in mind yet, but I definitely want to learn about the battery storage side of things as well, so ideally yes
I’ve lost a lot of the links I used to have when I was looking into this stuff, but I’ll throw a few things out there in the hopes that are able to use something from the pile to search up on google etc.
Disclaimer, I’m typing a lot of this stuff from memory so some of it may be wrong
I prefer DIYing things that I can, but for anything related to power, I will purchase off the shelf components that are know to work - just to keep my risks as low as possible.
The basic circuit would look like this: SOLAR PANEL --> SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER --> BATTERY --> OUTPUT LOAD
Solar Panels
You will find a lot of different “types” of Solar Panels, but that is mostly in their rating. The bigger a solar panel, the more electricity it can generate. The ratings will usually be given in a combination of Power (Watts, W), and Voltage (Volts, V). These two are related with the following equation:
Power (W) = Voltage (V) * Current (I)
The quicker you want to charge your batteries, the more Watts you will need.
(You can combine Solar Panels (in either Parallel or Series) to give you more Power. Combining multiple panels may be a little bit more advanced (but not really as long as you know what your doing). I would recommend to start off with one panel, and then design and add as required https://battlebornbatteries.com/solar-panels-in-series-or-parallel/#:~:text=When you wire multiple panels,output voltages stay the same.
Solar Charge Controllers
Whatever Solar Panel you end up getting will have a rating. This is most likely going to be in Watts (W), which is a combination of the Voltage (V) and Current (I) (where Power (W) = V * I). When you measure the output of a solar panel, you will see that the Voltage fluctuates (due to clouds, orientation etc.), and hence, your overall Wattage will fluctuate.
For various reasons, having this type of fluctuation is not the best when your are tying to charge a battery. Hence, we use “Charge Controllers”. A Charge Controller is specific to the type of Battery you end up using (There’s a brief breakdown of some common battery types below). A Charge Controller will take the output from your Solar Panel, and will regulate what it needs to regulate, and output energy into the battery. As an example, Jaycar has a lot of different Solar Charge Controllers (They are in no way the best, but have linked them because people are familiar with them. Look for other offerings as well) https://www.jaycar.co.nz/power-batteries/solar-power/solar-charge-controllers/c/0HC?sort=popularity-desc&q
You will notice that there are “PWM” type and “MPPT” Solar Charge Controllers. MPPT are more expensive compared to their PWM counterparts, and with the way they work, they are basically more efficient in getting the Energy that you gather from your Solar Panel, into your Battery. PWM is still a valid option. When choosing your Solar Charge Controller, make sure they are compatible with the Voltage rating of your Solar Panels & Batteries, and that they are able to handle the amount of current your system will be pumping into the battery at max.
The Solar Charge controller should have Output Terminals as well, where you can connect the Load that you want to power (or you can connect them directly to the battery if your Voltage requirements are the same as your battery voltage). Here’s a User manual of a MPPT Charge Controller that also includes some diagrams as to how everything would be wired up (page 14) https://www.jaycar.co.nz/medias/sys_master/images/images/9959654293534/MP3741-manualMain.pdf
For the microcontroller work that I do (very lower power usage), I use these Solar Charge Controllers https://www.adafruit.com/product/4755
Battery Type
You have a few choices for different types of Batteries
-
Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) Batteries - These are your common car battery types. They are usually good for giving you a short burst of power, but they aren’t very energy dense (i.e., for the same physical size, other types of batteries will give you more energy/capacity). Adding to this, they cannot utilize their full rated capacity (usually good for about 50% of their rated capacity), and their rated life (counted in number of times you deplete the battery (discharge cycles)) is comparatively quite low. Per unit, they are the cheapest (but be sure to take into account, actual capacity available, and the lifespan of the battery).
-
Lithium Ion Batteries - These are the batteries found in our phones and most portable electronics. They are very energy dense, and you can utilize all of their capacity. They have a longer life, but they are known to catch on fire / explode when not taken care of properly. You MUST take care when using Lithium Ion batteries, and really know what you are doing. This includes ensuring you use a Battery Management System (BMS) specifically for Li-Ion Batteries. However, with proper care, the risk becomes very low.
-
LiFePo4 Batteries - Very similar to the above mentioned Lithium Ion (In fact these are Lithium batteries too), but they are said to be safer than Li-Ion batteries. They also have a much greater life when compared to Li-ion, but they are more expensive.
-
NiCad Batteries - For the same amount of energy, they are bigger than lithium based batteries. They also suffer from a “memory effect”, where if you keep charging them before they are fully depleted, your batteries capacity will decrease (as the battery “thinks” the point at which you charge is empty).
-
I’ve lost a lot of the links I used to have when I was looking into this stuff, but I’ll throw a few things out there in the hopes that are able to use something from the pile to search up on google etc.
Disclaimer, I’m typing a lot of this stuff from memory so some of it may be wrong
I prefer DIYing things that I can, but for anything related to power, I will purchase off the shelf components that are know to work - just to keep my risks as low as possible.
The basic circuit would look like this: SOLAR PANEL --> SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER --> BATTERY --> OUTPUT LOAD
Solar Panels
You will find a lot of different “types” of Solar Panels, but that is mostly in their rating. The bigger a solar panel, the more electricity it can generate. The ratings will usually be given in a combination of Power (Watts, W), and Voltage (Volts, V). These two are related with the following equation:
Power (W) = Voltage (V) * Current (I)
The quicker you want to charge your batteries, the more Watts you will need.
(You can combine Solar Panels (in either Parallel or Series) to give you more Power. Combining multiple panels may be a little bit more advanced (but not really as long as you know what your doing). I would recommend to start off with one panel, and then design and add as required https://battlebornbatteries.com/solar-panels-in-series-or-parallel/#:~:text=When you wire multiple panels,output voltages stay the same.
Solar Charge Controllers
Whatever Solar Panel you end up getting will have a rating. This is most likely going to be in Watts (W), which is a combination of the Voltage (V) and Current (I) (where Power (W) = V * I). When you measure the output of a solar panel, you will see that the Voltage fluctuates (due to clouds, orientation etc.), and hence, your overall Wattage will fluctuate.
For various reasons, having this type of fluctuation is not the best when your are tying to charge a battery. Hence, we use “Charge Controllers”. A Charge Controller is specific to the type of Battery you end up using (There’s a brief breakdown of some common battery types below). A Charge Controller will take the output from your Solar Panel, and will regulate what it needs to regulate, and output energy into the battery. As an example, Jaycar has a lot of different Solar Charge Controllers (They are in no way the best, but have linked them because people are familiar with them. Look for other offerings as well) https://www.jaycar.co.nz/power-batteries/solar-power/solar-charge-controllers/c/0HC?sort=popularity-desc&q
You will notice that there are “PWM” type and “MPPT” Solar Charge Controllers. MPPT are more expensive compared to their PWM counterparts, and with the way they work, they are basically more efficient in getting the Energy that you gather from your Solar Panel, into your Battery. PWM is still a valid option. When choosing your Solar Charge Controller, make sure they are compatible with the Voltage rating of your Solar Panels & Batteries, and that they are able to handle the amount of current your system will be pumping into the battery at max.
The Solar Charge controller should have Output Terminals as well, where you can connect the Load that you want to power (or you can connect them directly to the battery if your Voltage requirements are the same as your battery voltage). Here’s a User manual of a MPPT Charge Controller that also includes some diagrams as to how everything would be wired up (page 14) https://www.jaycar.co.nz/medias/sys_master/images/images/9959654293534/MP3741-manualMain.pdf
For the microcontroller work that I do (very lower power usage), I use these Solar Charge Controllers https://www.adafruit.com/product/4755
Battery Type
You have a few choices for different types of Batteries
-
Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) Batteries - These are your common car battery types. They are usually good for giving you a short burst of power, but they aren’t very energy dense (i.e., for the same physical size, other types of batteries will give you more energy/capacity). Adding to this, they cannot utilize their full rated capacity (usually good for about 50% of their rated capacity), and their rated life (counted in number of times you deplete the battery (discharge cycles)) is comparatively quite low. Per unit, they are the cheapest (but be sure to take into account, actual capacity available, and the lifespan of the battery).
-
Lithium Ion Batteries - These are the batteries found in our phones and most portable electronics. They are very energy dense, and you can utilize all of their capacity. They have a longer life, but they are known to catch on fire / explode when not taken care of properly. You MUST take care when using Lithium Ion batteries, and really know what you are doing. This includes ensuring you use a Battery Management System (BMS) specifically for Li-Ion Batteries. However, with proper care, the risk becomes very low.
-
LiFePo4 Batteries - Very similar to the above mentioned Lithium Ion (In fact these are Lithium batteries too), but they are said to be safer than Li-Ion batteries. They also have a much greater life when compared to Li-ion, but they are more expensive.
-
NiCad Batteries - For the same amount of energy, they are bigger than lithium based batteries. They also suffer from a “memory effect”, where if you keep charging them before they are fully depleted, your batteries capacity will decrease (as the battery “thinks” the point at which you charge is empty).
-
It’s raining!
This morning we are going to the local market and doing some recycling (including a quick visit to the re-use shop to make sure I’m not missing out on any books). It sounds boring but after a pretty rotten week I’m revelling in having such a simple list of things to do at my own speed.
Sounds good! I love going to the market. But I always end up spending savings from cheap veggies on fancy bread.
The SO decided it was raining too steadily to traipse around a carpark looking at onions so the market was a no-go. Maybe next weekend…
In the meantime, I tried making porridge from scratch for the first time since I was about 8, an Icelandic variation with cinnamon and vanilla. It was nice but it’s definitely a weekend thing - our stove takes forever to heat up.
This might be a food abomination but I blend up oats, then it takes 2 mins in the microwave to make porridge.
It’s not fancy Icelandic porridge though.
During the week I use the sachets and cook it in water which is probably a bigger abomination, haha.
A good area to start might be with Motorhomes and the like. They have much smaller, closed loop solar systems. Could get a good base to go from.
